Fashion History Timeline @FITfashionstory
The Fashion History Timeline is an open-access source for #fashionhistory knowledge & hub for #fashionresearch, with essays on artworks, garments and films. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu New York, USA Joined March 2017-
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Often overlooked in favor of the dominating “la garçonne” or flapper look of the 1920s, this Robe de Style by Jeanne Lanvin shows another one of the most popular styles of women’s dress during the decade. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1920-1929/
1930 was a transitional year. Designers’ 1930 collections moved away from the flapper’s boxy shape in an attempt to define the look of the modern woman who must navigate through the Great Depression. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1930-2/
Popular in the nineteenth century, the poke bonnet was a women’s hat that featured a large brim that extended beyond the wearer’s face. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/poke-bonnet/
The year 1938 was a period of transition from the catastrophic Great Depression to World War II. Women’s fashion was exuberant: vibrant colors Surrealist accessories were key trends. However, the overall silhouette was simple, clean, and sophisticated. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1938-2/
Needle lace, often known as “needlepoint lace,” is an openwork technique which developed in the fifteenth century and then became very popular throughout the sixteenth century, especially utilized for making ruffs. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/needle-lace/
This 1863 gown, worn by Mary Todd Lincoln, is an exquisite example of fashionable dress from the early 1860s. With its fabric and details, it reveals more about the creator, Elizabeth Keckley, an accomplished seamstress who is integral to fashion history. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1863-keckley-s…
This Callot Soeurs evening dress(1910-1914) decorated with an overlay of sequins to glimmer in evening lights is influenced by Orientalism and the Directoire revival, and embodies the latest trends of the last years of La Belle Epoque. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1910-14-callot…
Popular in the 1680s, the French fontange (or commode in England) was a linen cap with layers of lace and ribbon, worn flat and pinned to the back of the head. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/fontange/
Gilbert Adrian’s evening dress is fashionable because it followed the strict guidelines of General Limitation Order L-85 during World War II, but still was able to capture the sense of hopefulness felt by America with its playful and uplifting charm. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1942-adrian-ev…
In Ingres’s 1856 portrait, Madame Moitessier wears a fashionable off-the-shoulder dress with a bertha collar trimmed with tassels. The evening dress reflects her elegant taste and features the essential elements of 1850s fashion. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1856-ingres-mo…
In the late 18th & early 19th-century, skeleton suits were play wear for boys that consisted of two pieces–a fitted jacket and trouser that button together. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/skeleton-suit/
This gold-colored silk afternoon dress with its green bows and ruffles that help to emphasize the back of the silhouette was on trend in 1866, but its coordinating trompe l’oeil jacket was very fashion-forward. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1866-silk-dres…
Faustina appears to be the ideal woman of 1899 as her dress includes all of the most fashionable evening wear details, like short puffed sleeves, lace details, and a curvaceous silhouette. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1899-sanchez-p…
The Doric Peplos is the most common woman’s garment in classical Greek art, and continues to inspire draped designs throughout fashion history. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/peplos/
Originally a purse and hand warmer in one, the muff was first introduced to women’s fashion in 1570 and was considered an essential accessory for feminine dress in the 18th century. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/muff/
Often used for evening and disco wear in the mid-twentieth century, Lurex is a shiny synthetic fiber made of aluminum-coated plastic which gives off a glittering metallic sheen. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/lurex/
Costume designer for Elizabeth: The Golden Age, Alexandra Byrne, hews closely to the recognizable silhouette from the time, emphasizing especially the dramatic ruffs and collars so widely attributed to Queen Elizabeth and the Elizabethan era. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/2007-kapur-eli…
Fashionable in the late 16th and early 17th century, the bum roll was a roll of padding tied around the hip line to hold a woman’s skirt out from the body. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/bum-roll/
While the silhouette of this day dress, its floral brocade, and its use of fringe were fashionable for 1859, its choice of gold silk fabric and naturalistic coloring for the flowers was less so. fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1859-gold-silk…
Fashionable in eighteenth century Western women’s fashions, the fichu was a triangular shawl draped over the shoulders and crossed or fastened in the front. Read more! fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/fichu/
Catherine Curzon @MadameGilflurt
38K Followers 569 Following Creator of #frockingfabulous. I write bestselling WW2 sagas as Ellie Curzon and history books as me! Always gandering. Tips👉 https://t.co/W4WZU6S3WV
A Stitch in Time ✂�.. @AStitchinTime13
23K Followers 1K Following What she wore. Women, women’s dress & textiles mainly C18th-C20th. Instagram & Threads a_stitch-in_time_13. Bluesky https://t.co/GgRfh3QjtP
Lauren Deutsch @LaurenCDeutsch
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Victoria Haddock @vickyhaddock
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Fashion Museum Bath @Fashion_Museum
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Dr. Kimberly Chrisman.. @HottyCouture
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empress sissi @historicalfits
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Costume Society UK @costume_society
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NicDaisy @plummie9
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Dr. Kimberly Chrisman.. @HottyCouture
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Dr Isabella Rosner @IsabellaRosner
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73 Followers 113 Following Chicago Fashion Lyceum is a place of sharing and learning whose goal is to enable and develop broad, inclusive, enriching, and inspiring discussions.Fabulous archive find today. Petit Courrier des Dames (September 1865). Gotta love a statement jacket! #fashionhistory
Attention fashion historians!! JOB: Full time faculty, Art History department, specializing in Fashion History and Theory, Fashion Institute of Technology @FIT, $69,475- $82,141 per year, with eligibility for visa sponsorship. fitnyc.interviewexchange.com/jobofferdetail…
Come work with me at FIT! The History of Art department is hiring a full-time TT fashion historian. Please share widely: fitnyc.interviewexchange.com/jobofferdetail… #Fashionhistory #JOBALERT
@FITfashionstory This fashion plate says Gay Rights! Looks at these sassy gentlemen! That hip and knee action! That tartan shawl draped casually over the shoulder. This is Fashion was a capital F.
The first time I ever heard "Great Masculine Renunciation," it was by someone claiming it was the term given to Beau Brummell's influence on male fashion. Which, if you know anything about either, feels like an oxymoron.
Flugel's "Great Masculine Renunciation" is explicitly white supremacist. White European men don't indulge in color and trim unlike women and the "lesser races" in the colonies. It's also BS; menswear just became about details and military garb/home wear remained flamboyant. (1/6)
I remember the Great Masculine Renunciation being the first fashion history terminology I learnt and loving how fancy it sounded but now it turns out it got disproved a long time ago by fashion historians! Always learning ☺️
Flugel's "Great Masculine Renunciation" is explicitly white supremacist. White European men don't indulge in color and trim unlike women and the "lesser races" in the colonies. It's also BS; menswear just became about details and military garb/home wear remained flamboyant. (1/6)
@tweets__by_cory @dieworkwear The theory isn't accurate & thus obsolete. It was a flawed attempt to explain observed changes, but the explanation given was clouded by ideology & so misread the past. 19th c. men continued to follow fashion; they just stopped talking about it. See quote: x.com/fitfashionstor…
Flugel's "Great Masculine Renunciation" is explicitly white supremacist. White European men don't indulge in color and trim unlike women and the "lesser races" in the colonies. It's also BS; menswear just became about details and military garb/home wear remained flamboyant. (1/6)
Short but good thread about the Great Masculine Renunciation and two bibliographical references.
Flugel's "Great Masculine Renunciation" is explicitly white supremacist. White European men don't indulge in color and trim unlike women and the "lesser races" in the colonies. It's also BS; menswear just became about details and military garb/home wear remained flamboyant. (1/6)
@FITfashionstory Oh, my! When I was a child, I found this dress in one of my mum's magazines and cut it out. Kept in a special folder of clothing I liked and looked almost every day 😍
It should also be said that "Great Masculine Renunciation" is a concept formulated around 1929, by a man whose ideas were from the 19th century.
Flugel's "Great Masculine Renunciation" is explicitly white supremacist. White European men don't indulge in color and trim unlike women and the "lesser races" in the colonies. It's also BS; menswear just became about details and military garb/home wear remained flamboyant. (1/6)
@addressingart @dieworkwear Agreed! Fashion historians have stopped using Flugel's 1930s concept of a Great Masculine Renunciation, for just these reasons. It's now considered part of the development of theoretical thinking but long since superceded by a lot of scholarship.
@FITfashionstory Thank you for this post. Indeed, most fashion historians do NOT use this term.
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Our favorite example of flamboyant 19th c. menswear at home: John Singer Sargent, Dr. Pozzi at Home, 1881 @hammer_museum
THIS IS WHAT I CAME TOO SEE
Flugel's "Great Masculine Renunciation" is explicitly white supremacist. White European men don't indulge in color and trim unlike women and the "lesser races" in the colonies. It's also BS; menswear just became about details and military garb/home wear remained flamboyant. (1/6)
@FITfashionstory Reminds me of this book. Very similar theoretical energy
The Great Male Renunciation—a term fashion historians use to describe a period in the 18th century when Western men renounced fashion and left dressing shenanigans to women—basically led us to the yawning chasm in style we see in this photo.
“As an Iraq veteran & current officer in the US Navy Reserve, Ron understands the needs of our vets.” @CaseyDeSantis
@tieguy @dieworkwear Breward's The Suit: Form, Function and Style is more widely available/cheaper.
@addressingart @dieworkwear Oh, and I see that Breward elaborates. Thanks!
@addressingart @dieworkwear Elaborate? Happy to also just dump into the Wikipedia article with “it is BS” :)
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