@AskTOH Joint width matters as much as the pattern. Each polymeric sand product states a joint width range on the bag, and it needs a dry window to set, since early rain causes haze or washout. Worth checking both before picking a layout.
Wood rot around a window: probe it first. Under about 20 percent of the sill, epoxy works. Sinks in along the full length, replace the sill. Into the frame, call a carpenter. A pro epoxy repair is the weakest value per year.
Epoxy on rotted wood: soak first with a thin penetrating coat, fill second with thickened epoxy, 12 mm per layer at most. And it does not kill the rot, so fix the leak first.
Self-leveling concrete is not one product. Skim coat for dips, flexible patch for cracked subfloors, poured underlayment for whole rooms. Per their data sheets, all three are interior products. Guide in the reply.
Construction adhesive, epoxy or silicone? Moving joint: silicone. Big wood or masonry bond: adhesive. Small rigid repair: epoxy. And Liquid Nails' own sheet says LN-903 is not for subfloors.
Two exterior window caulks can look the same and be rated for very different joint movement. GE silicone and DAP AMP: plus or minus 35 percent. DAP siliconized latex: plus or minus 12 percent. Updated guide, link below.
Polymeric sand has three clocks. Rain-safe in 15 minutes to 24 hours, walkable in about 24 hours, and Sika says 72 hours before a car where Alliance Gator says 24. Cold nights stretch all of it.
Polymeric sand haze on pavers: the maker says hot water at 180 F or more reactivates the polymer so it strips off. A white film may be efflorescence instead. Failed joints need the old sand out to 1 1/2 inches.
@Family_Handyman The one that matters most is watts divided by volts equals amps. A 1,800 watt heater on a 120 volt circuit pulls 15 amps, which is already past the 12 amp continuous limit on a standard 15 amp breaker, so it should not share that circuit with anything.
Polymeric sand is not always the answer. Labels start at 1/8 inch joints and want an inch or more of depth. Tight joints and heavily textured pavers do better with plain jointing sand.
@Family_Handyman A lot of the worst inspector photos start as small moisture problems nobody tracked: a failed caulk line, a clogged gutter, a missing flashing. Catching those early is usually the cheapest repair on the whole house.
White powder on stone is salt, not a stain. Granite, slate and concrete can take an acid cleaner. Limestone and marble cannot. Start with a dry brush, then water, then a poultice, and test a hidden patch first.
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