Lena Fairless @LFairless

My daughter's middle school has the most direct fundraising strategy and I'm here for it. We can skip the whole charade.

Neiman Marcus closed its downtown Dallas flagship yesterday. The store played a notable role in the history of desegregation in Dallas during the 1960s. Previously, Black shoppers across the US could enter department stores, but they weren't allowed to try on clothes before purchasing without adhering to certain conditions. For instance, they had to try on clothes over their clothes, put on protective covers when trying on hats, or weren't allowed to make returns once they purchased clothes and brought them home. These policies stemmed from the racist fear that white customers would refuse merchandise previously worn by Black shoppers. The downtown Neiman Marcus flagship was one of the first major Dallas businesses that broke with these practices. In 1961, the company desegregated its Zodiac Room, a swanky restaurant frequented by Dallas elites. Neiman Marcus later welcomed Black shoppers without restrictions. These victories were achieved through the efforts of Civil Rights activists, along with support from Neiman Marcus president Stanley Marcus, who was an early advocate for desegregation in Dallas. The Neiman Marcus store manager purportedly warned Marcus that he would ruin his business — and indeed, some shoppers closed their accounts — but he stuck with his decision. At the time of the flagship's closure, the Main Street store had been open for 112 years.

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Harris Tweed is a protected name, regulated by the Harris Tweed Authority, which requires the cloth to be handwoven in the Outer Hebrides from pure virgin wool that has been dyed and spun there. It's the most well-known tweed and perhaps the one most people will encounter, as it's abundant in thrift shops. The material has a lovely heritage, but if I'm being honest, it's also my least favorite tweed because it's very itchy and scratchy, owing in part to the coarse wool used to make it. There are other tweeds are named after regions, such as Donegal (though no governing body regulates it, so it's more likely to be abused). Technically speaking, Donegal tweed should be woven in County Donegal, Ireland, although it's not uncommon to see people use the term to refer to any tweed with flecks of color, regardless of where it's produced. However, some tweeds are woven from different types and grades of wool. Lovat Mill mostly uses Shetland wool, which is much softer than Harris Tweed and has an appreciable loft (slide one). That sponginess can also affect tailoring, as it slightly changes the silhouette. In slide two, we see Fox Brothers tweed, which is softer still. Some of these are so soft, you can almost mistake them for woolen flannel, for which the company is best known. In the third slide, we see Holland & Sherry's Sherry tweed, which is the softest tweed I've come across. These are made from lambswool and feel more like sweaters. In the fourth and final slide, we see some "tweeds" woven by the Italian mill Vitale Barberis Canonico. These rely more heavily on worsted yarns than the woolens shown in the previous slides. To me, their modern coloring and worsted nature make them barely tweeds, although the fabrics are packaged and marketed under the name "Tweedly." Point being: if you've ever felt tweed and didn't like the feel, consider that maybe you just felt one type, likely Harris. It's among the coarsest and scratchiest of the tweeds. But much like tomatoes, which come in different varieties that differ in shape and sweetness, so too does tweed.

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Anthony Boyd @CharlieBronze

3 weeks ago

@dieworkwear That looks elegant. I bought a Harris Tweed jacket last year and I'm not enamoured of how course the material feels and looks.

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The vast majority of men don't wear tailored clothing often enough to warrant a large wardrobe. Thus, if you're interested in tailored clothing, the easiest way to avoid looking bad is to stick to very simple things: — One "serious" suit in navy, mid-gray, or dark gray worsted wool. This should be single-breasted with notch lapels. You can wear this to weddings, funerals, religious events, and such. — One solid-colored navy sport coat made from navy wool, likely hopsack or an open weave such as Mock Leno. This should again be single-breasted with notch lapels. This is the most versatile sport coat. It's the sort of thing you wear on Mother's Day. — One or two other sport coats, likely mid- to dark brown. Make these from seasonal fabrics suited to your climate: wool-silk-linen if you live in a warm climate; tweed if you live in a colder climate. The fabrics can be patterned, but ask yourself when shopping — is this pattern something that a used car dealer or ESPN host would wear? If so, do not buy the jacket. These again should be single-breasted with notch lapels. Wear this when you want tailoring, but a suit looks out of place. — One semi-spread collar dress shirt made from a smooth white cotton fabric, such as poplin or broadcloth. Avoid cutaway collars; they are gauche. — A small stack of light-blue dress shirts — some solid-blue, some blue-white striped. If you're American and have any sense of pride in your country, get Oxford cloth button-downs where the collar points are long enough to give a full roll. If you're not American, or if you're a traitor to the United States, they can be semi-spread collars cut from smooth, pure cotton, such as broadcloth. Although I think end-on-end lends a bit of visual interest. — A matte silk rep striped tie that's not too visually busy. Get this in a basic, sober color like navy, brown, or forest green. Always tie this with a four-in-hand. Never wear a full Windsor knot or anything too complicated (those weird knots that get lots of upvotes on Reddit). — Trousers made in a classic cut (high-rise, not too slim). These should be light gray, mid gray, or tan, and then cut from seasonal materials that make sense for your climate — tropical wool for warmer seasons; wool flannel, cavalry twill, or whipcord for cooler seasons. You can get them with flat fronts or a single reverse pleat. Do not ask "are pleats stylish?" In fact, stop asking how to look stylish, young, or fashionable altogether. — Two pairs of Goodyear-welted, full-grain leather dress shoes in mid or dark brown. These can be derbies or penny loafers, since you'll likely wear sport coats, not suits. (Do not wear oxford shoes with sport coats). Never touch tan leather shoes. Or any dress shoes with a sneaker bottom. — A leather dress belt that's about 1.25" wide. The color should be close to the color of your shoes — dark brown with dark brown, mid-brown with mid-brown. — Solid navy over-the-calf dress socks. These can be thin cotton if you live in a warm climate. Otherwise, choose thin wool. Do not try to get creative. Even sticking with this formula will be creative enough, as no one knows how to wear tailored clothing anymore. Thus, you will look elegant in a sea of bad made-to-measure tailoring, Italian checked fabrics, skinny pants, tan dress shoes, black dress shirts, ugly ties, and the like.

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😅😂 9th edition of taco bell 50k ultra marathon is happening this Saturday October 3rd in Denver Colorado. This is one of the weirdest marathons you will see. Runners have to stop at all 10 taco bells. They must eat a menu item from 9 of 10 taco bells. By 4th stop everyone must eat a chulapa supreme or crunch wrap supreme. By 8th stop everyone must eat a burrito supreme or nacho bell grande. And they have to finish it under 11 hours. Race starts at 7:30 am #food #Marathon #colorado

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The perfect ending for Justin Verlander. His daughter runs out to the mound and he walks off with his family. Feels like a movie.

Be like Keith and you'll have a lot less #stress.

The NFL Odyssey ⚔️ 🚨 New #GridironHeights episode

Someone on my street puts out light, nonsensical lawn signs. Replaces them every few weeks. I assume he’s mocking lawn sign people and if so, I need to meet him.

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Went to a wedding today who had an artist making watercolors of all the guests, and oh my god, that is the best wedding favor ever.

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No better way to communicate the Bible to your toddlers and introduce them to Jesus. 🥹🥹🥹 This is sooooooooooo beautiful to watch.

Someone on Reddit patched their couch after their cat tore up the corner. I really love it.

How millions of kids first heard Opera

A fake real estate agent showed New Yorkers beautiful homes with huge yards, short commutes, and prices they couldn’t believe. Then they found out where the homes actually were. Their reactions are priceless. Welcome to Iowa.

Sicily has a four-legged early warning system for Mount Etna. It has a beard, it eats gorse, and it is beating several million euros of monitoring equipment by half a day. The shepherds have known this for as long as anyone has kept goats on that mountain. The herd tells you. No drama about it, no bleating, no rearing up and pointing at the summit. They simply decline to go up the hill that morning, and if the goats will not go up, neither do you. Oldest volcano warning system in Europe. Costs nothing. Runs on scrub. For most of history the scientific response to this has been a polite nod and a change of subject. Then in 2011 a German turned up with a box of trackers. Martin Wikelski of the Max Planck Institute of Animal Behaviour has an unfashionable habit of asking local people what they already know before deciding they are simple. He collared goats living year-round on the slopes and started logging where they went, and when, and how fast. On 4 January 2012 the data went peculiar. The animals turned down the high pastures they use every day of their lives, all of them, and headed for the trees. The seismometers were quiet. The gas monitors were quiet. In a control room in Catania, a great deal of very expensive equipment was reporting a perfectly ordinary Wednesday. That evening Etna started throwing lava and ash into the sky. Six hours. The same signature has now turned up before eight major eruptions, and at the extreme the goats move fourteen hours ahead of the mountain. Ahead of the tremor. Ahead of the gas. Ahead of everything the volcanologists are paid to watch. Nobody knows how they do it. The best guess is sulphur dioxide and hydrogen sulphide venting beforehand at concentrations no human nose could ever find, which would mean the animals are smelling the future and declining to comment. Wikelski's own summary is that they know in advance, we have no idea how, but they do. The institute says there is not yet enough data for a formal warning system. More eruptions, more animals, more species. Which is the correct scientific answer and a very funny one, since the shepherds reached sufficient confidence somewhere around the Bronze Age and have been acting on it every day since. Rome had geese who saved the city by making a racket when the Gauls came over the wall, and honoured them for it every year afterwards. Etna has their spiritual successors, doing the same job by refusing to walk uphill. We have a word in English for a man who behaves like a goat. It means he eats anything, wrecks anything, and understands nothing. The goat currently outperforms a seismograph.

There’s a John Deere Kids YouTube channel that’s basically just real tractors and farmers doing actual work, and it seems infinitely preferable for toddlers to watch than the hyper-optimized “kids” content that dominates YouTube

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I have watched this one about a million times because it is both catchy and true.

The Gregory Brothers @gregorybrothers

2 months ago

help, we're lost on the 71 Peachtree streets of Atlanta

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This first-day-of-school tradition leaves freshmen embarrassed, parents slightly emotional and hundreds of seniors cheering. @SteveHartmanCBS is On the Road in Oklahoma.

when trying on a suit, do this in the store. then tell the sales associate "the menswear guy told me to do this."

Enjoyed this Esquire feature on the Churchwell brothers. IMO, they are among the last elegantly dressed men in the United States. Notably, neither are "fashion influencers." They are both distinguished doctors with great taste and a lifetime relationship with the same tailor.

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